I just got a 160 propane w electronic ignition. How does the electronic ignition work? No documentation. All can light and adjust it manually. It also looks like it is mounted too far back from the burner.
Attached is the user installation guide. Basically when you turn the right knob, you should hear gas coming out of the ignition tube. When you turn the knob further, a spark should strike the gas. Usually it takes 3~4 strikes to get the flame shooting out the ignition tube to reach the main burner.
Can you advise me pros and cons of having the electronic ignition?
With electronic ignition option you do not need a long nose BBQ manual ignitor. However you will need to strike a few times to get the burner going. Manual ignition has a pilot flame. Typically you light the pilot up and light up the burner from pilot.
Good Morning, I’m interested in the above burner for outdoor wok cooking. Can you tell me a bit more about the electronic ignition and any other notes I should be aware of. From my research, this appears to be the most popular work burner out there. Thanks!
The electronic ignition is a piezoelectric spark type. It cannot serve as a pilot flame. If you scroll down our home page and use the search box, you should be able to come up with the information of your interest.
Gotcha. What configuration do you recommend for outdoor wok cooking?
We usually like simple set up, a long leg manual ignition stove with a table on its side for spices and ingredients.
You can have the leg stabilizers if you toss during cooking. For most sturdy cooking with heavy tossing, we recommend to have the short leg version on a table.
I’m trying to understand what your warning about the electronic ignition melting really means and how that effects how to use the burner during cooking.
1) Does your electronic ignition actually run on batteries and it has an on/off switch that can be left in the on position? In it does have a switch that can be left in the on position then you are warning about the constant cycling of the ignition spark will melt the wires so the switch has to be turned off immediately after the pilot is lit? Is this the condition you are warning about?
2) Or do you mean your electronic ignition is actually a manual strike piezo electric ignitor and that the PILOT LIGHT cannot stay on after the main burner is lit or the wires will melt? So what you actually mean is that the Pilot Light has to be turned off after the main burner is lit or the wires will met? Is this the case?
3) If 2) is the case does that mean I have to re-light the pilot every time I turn the main burner off during a cooking session?
4 If I order the manual version I can leave the pilot light running and only have to light it with a match once per cooking session. Is that a correct statement? Best regards,
Very good questions. Your 2), 3) and 4) are true.
Thank you for your quick reply and for providing the detailed operational information and cautions on your new product design. This is very helpful. There are many design improvements so I see you are continuously upgrading your product and offerings.
I have found Kenji’s video’s very helpful and this is what got me trying outdoor wok cooking and indeed it was the restaurant style cooking and wok hei flavor I am after. Best regards ,
Hello, I’m looking to purchase, but have a few questions.
1) The PF13L160EI, is there any other difference between this and the manual ignition, besides the ignition? Has the electronic ignition gotten better? I read some of ur archived info, and it seems the electric ignition isn’t too reliable, and I think it’s like $50 more!
2) what PSI is the regulator? 0-?
3) on the electric and manual, does it now come with the braided hose screwing onto the burner? I do NOT want one that is secured with the tension strap.
4) do you warranty the burner? If so, for how long?
Thank you for your time.
- the main difference between PF13L160EI and PF13L160 is the electronic ignition. Electronic ignition eventually will fail due to weather and aging of components. So it eventually will be used as a manual one. The electronic ignition component is much more expensive and we want to discourage it.
- Both stoves have stainless braided hose. However inside it is still a rubber type. The braided stainless protect the rubber hose from environment. The PF13L160EI still has one end of the hose secured by worm type clamp. If you don’t like this, your choice should be PF13L160.
- You can return the product if not used within 60 days of purchase. Once used we support it whole-heartily but without promise. We reserve our right to serve our customer the best way we see it.
An EasyFlamer EF13SQN50WG stove has been deposited with www.xxx???.com. It takes 2~3 business days to reach your address. The tracking number is ????.
Attached in this email is the user installation guide. When we test the stove before shipping, it takes 7~8 electronic strikes to have one successful. So please have a manual long nose BBQ igniter handy. Procedure on manual ignition can be found on page 3, item 15. Bests.
So you’re telling me that the igniter is not working ? and just use a lighter ? Is there any advice that would make the igniter efficient so I can use it conveniently?
GOD Bless us all !!!
On our product page http://outdoorstirfry.com/?page_id=321, we mention this problem for this series of stoves as below:
EasyFlamer Natural Gas Stove: The stoves are of cast iron. The single burner has two venturi pipes, four flame rings. We have installed spider guard between the ignition head and the venturi pipes in an effort to deter spider web build up. Spider web can slow or even block gas delivery along the pipes to the burner. This usually causes yellow flame at the burner or even gas burning close to ignition head area. It eventually shortens the stove life. A picture of spider guard is here. The power of the stoves is between ~5kBTU/Hr and ~23kBTU/Hr. The stoves are adapted for natural gas use based upon requests from our customers for their outdoor high power cooking. They can not be used with propane gas. Behind the front power adjusting knob and under the burner pipe and front cover there is an electronic ignition valve assembly. The electronic ignition function is not reliable and its ability to ignite can vary from unit to unit and under different weather conditions. We advise to always have a manual BBQ long nose igniter handy when the electronic ignition function is not working. Please be aware that this product shipped from us may not have a functioning electronic ignition. In this case the stove is functioning as a manual one. /p>
The problem is actually associated with every electronic ignition gas stove. We are accustomed to one successful strike if we get a flame within 3 tries. Then we are fed up after #4 try. In fact in my home I even have a manual long nose BBQ igniter beside my indoor gas range because one of the electronic “smart” ignition keeps trying but fails to ignite a flame. On our web page we no longer sell this series of stove as electronic ignition type as we can’t guarantee them to work within 3~4 strikes. Hope this makes sense.
I got you point with regards to your product but don’t generalized stoves as having ignition problems, mine doesn’t have. I bought this because, my burner on the side of my outdoor griller doesn’t fit my wok and frying pans and since I have a natural gas line in my backyard patio this item is the only one that fits. I can live with the long nose lighter but I hope this product will last long.
The ignition problem is what we notice. The rest of the stove should last quite long time. We are always here to help in case you have any question or problem.
I’m excited to purchase one of your wok burners. I’ve done a lot of research and settled on your company.
I was hoping you could help clarify about the electronic ignition. In some of your reader questions and FAQs you mention the electronic ignition can sometimes fail. I was hoping to get a sense of whether it is worth going with the electronic ignition or just using a BBQ lighter with the manual.
I have never used an outdoor BBQ, but I am a passionate cook who has used 25K BTU stoves indoors. I recently moved to a home with outdoor space and am planning to use the powerflamer.
As a beginner, does it make sense to get the electronic start or just use the manual?
We would suggest to go with manual ignition with a long nose BBQ igniter. In this way you don’t have to deal with the electronic ignition systems that subject to weather. An electronic ignition head can become unreliable after a couple years. After that you will default to use a long nose BBQ igniter anyway.
Hope we answer your question. If not, please ask further.
This is really helpful! Thanks.
Would that be the PF13L160 if I am going for the highest BTUs and the long legs?
And is that the model you sell on Amazon?
PF13L160 it is. We sell this on amazon as well. You should get a better price + shipping from our web site.
I’m interested in an outdoor wok stove, and I’m trying to decide which model to buy. I have a few questions:
- Would you recommend the electronic ignition or the manual ignition? Is the electronic ignition reliable? Would you consider electronic ignition to be safer than manual, or vice versa?
- Is the 160 KBTU model the latest model and the 130 KBTU an older model? Is there a reason to choose one over the other?
- When will the 160 KBTU models be available?
Electronic ignition usually will fail in a couple years or so as the wire ages in an outdoor environment. It will become intermittent at first. We can’t guarantee that electronic ignition be reliable to ignite. We always recommend to have a manual long nose BBQ igniter handy nearby. Both electronic and manual stoves are safe.
We develop the 160 KBTU stove later than the 130 one. We would choose the 160 one as it is more powerful and feature rich.
The estimate for 160 KBTU stove availability is June. We have some pre-orders already. Those will be fulfilled first. And we have not decided for their price as we were hit by the imposed tariff.
I’m interested to order your high pressure wok burner, I see you have 2 products in the list and the difference is basically Electronic Ignition or Manual Ignition (am I right?) while the price is different by $60.
My question is why the Electronic Ignition is so much more expensive and does it worth it? and looking at the Q&A of Electronic Ignition version, you mentioned “usually the first part not to function” is the Electronic Ignition. I want to understand how long life of the Electronic Ignition itself do you expect if the frequency of using it is around 2~3 times per week? Thanks
Electronic ignition gives convenience without needing a manual ignitor. Its life does not heavily depend on how frequent you are using it. Its life ages along with outdoor environment. It typically last about 2 years in life as outdoor environment deteriorates the wiring and increases leakage paths. As a contrast, we have other parts of stove running >15~20 years without failure.
When you say “we have other parts of stove running >15~20 years without failure”, you mean the main strove of the product, right?
It seems based on your answer, I just go for the product with the manual ignitor. It’s not really that much incontinent anyway (with the BBA ignitor) , right?
You are right. The rest of the stove lasts much longer. If you are used to use a long nose BBQ igniter, it is OK.
can this burner PF13L160EI go on pilot? how does the electric ignition work?
The left knob controlling electronic ignition can be turned counter clockwise. Along the way toward its 90 degrees, you will hear hissing sound of the gas going out of the copper ignition pipe. About 90 degrees you will hear a click. The click generates a spark in front of the pipe to ignite the flame. Once there is a flame from the ignition copper pipe, you can turn on the left knob to give gas to the main burner. Once the main burner has flame, you can turn off the electronic ignition pipe flame. There should not be a standing pilot flame on the ignition pipe as a long standing flame is detrimental to the ignition wire insulation.