Hello, Can you please tell me what material the PowerFlamer is made of? Does it have a coating of paint? Can the PowerFlamer rust? What is the difference between a bottle and a tank? Thanks.
Outdoorstirfry:
PowerFlamer stoves are made of cast iron. It can rust if exposed to rain/snow/humidity. On the surface it has a paint coating that prevents water to contact with the iron. Area without paint will always rust first.
Hello. Does the PowerFlamer Propane 160 with electric ignition allow for pilot light? If so, can the pilot light remain on while cooking if you need to turn the main burner off and then back on? Thank you
Outdoorstirfry:
Pilot flame feature is only present on our manual stoves. Electronic ignition flame on any electronic ignition stove needs to be shut off after main burner is lit to protect the ignition wire insulation.
If you don’t mind me asking a question, with the leg stabilizer is it pretty sturdy enough to do wok tossing? Or if I decide to put it on a hard surface (i.e. table) instead of using leg, would it be safe enough to do wok tossing without the burner moving?
Outdoorstirfry:
When tossing, we always advise to lift the wok fully up away from the stove before tossing. This should release the stove from being affected. Purposely tossing by using the stove edge, even with the stove stabilizers properly installed under heavy objects or short leg version on a table, will end up the stove falling over, creating a fire hazard. However, we understand that tossing can’t be perfect every time, the stove should be able to handle slight carry-away situation with stabilizers under heavy objects or a short leg stove sitting on a table.
We have customers building the short leg version stove into their outdoor cooking surface (mostly a thick concrete piece) by cutting a hole on the cooking surface and sinking the stove fully down into the hole. In this way the stove edge can by fully utilized for tossing as the entire stove is secured by a sturdy heavy cooking surface. This is like a restaurant cooking surface seen in most videos for tossing.
I’d honestly prefer a manual ignition over anything electronic that may fail over time but the redditor’s review on the improvements with the 6B burner vs the 5B has me contemplating on the IEI version. Are there any plans on 6B with manual ignition?
Outdoorstirfry:
There are a few reasons why we don’t offer manual option on the 6B burner.
6B burner is not designed to mount a manual valve.
When the electronic ignition fails, the main burner can still be lit by a long nose BBQ igniter.
Without pilot, the main burner can be turned down to minimum flame, thanks to the feature of continuous flame adjustment of our stoves. This minimum flame, although higher than a pilot flame, should not consume much fuel either.
Main burner is optimal for blue flame combustion. This leaves out possible yellow flame issue from any pilot flame.
In a nutshell, 6B burner can be treated as a manual one after the electronic ignition fails.
Hello, Please help me understand some things. To build a complete working set up. For example a power burner 160 with short legs( maybe none).
Does this burner fit into and sit atop of the stainless cart ( if wheels were included)?
Also the 160 has the two ring burner right? A inner and a larger outer circular flame?
Also with both models whether electronic ignition or manual the pilot light once ignited is always available to engage the burner as needed?
Just trying to understand everything.
I’ve dreamed about something like this since the late 80’s. Thanks for your response
Outdoorstirfry:
Only our PowerFlamer propane 160 short leg stoves can sit on the stainless stand. Stand wheel is an option you can order. Our standard 5B burner has 2 rings of flames, both are circular with outer larger flame. The manual stove has a pilot flame which can stay lit during cooking. The electronic version has an electronic ignition. The electronic ignition flame needs to be turned off to protect its wire insulation after igniting the main burner.
My control knob just broke (just the little plastic round piece you put on top of the metal pole with a slit). Can you please send me a new one to: XXX Thanks.
Outdoorstirfry:
can you send a picture of it? We need to make sure to send out the right part.
Customer:
It goes on top of this part. The wheels don’t stay in, 2 of the wheels fell out and made the stand fall and the plastic spinning part broke.
Outdoorstirfry:
On the knob, thank for your picture, we know now and will send a replacement. Please supply your phone number for shipping purpose. We wonder how two stand wheels fell out. Each stand wheel has about 2” of plastic thread to screw into a stand leg. Can you provide pictures of how you attach the wheels to the stand legs for us to understand?
Customer:
My phone number is XXX. When you use it, or try to roll it over a doorway, bump, or a rug, etc. or if you try a very light wok toss, the cart shakes or gets lifted just enough for 1-2 wheels to come out and it falls. When it falls, stuff falls. I’ve already lost 2 woks full of food. The distance of small bump causes that inch or 2 to slide up and the wheel drops anytime u try to put 1 wheel back in, another comes out. It’s a disaster. They don’t stay in. I need to glue them or something for it to work.
Outdoorstirfry:
Thank for the phone number. We will provide tracking information at ship time for the knob. Thank for providing more information on how the cart falls. I still don’t fully understand where the stand comes off. Can you share which area, joint 1 or joint 2, comes off in below picture during your tossing/lifting?
Stand Joints
Customer:
Sometimes joint 1 comes out also, but I am referring to joint 2. I intend to stick glue all over the black parts of the wheels inside the housing then stick them back into joint 2. I had to just take the wheels off until I glue them, it’s too dangerous to use it otherwise as they are not secured.
Outdoorstirfry:
Thank you for your further explanation. I guess joint 1 is more secured than joint 2 because of the stove weight. If you put in a weight on the lower shelf, like below picture, do you think that it might be more secure? Gluing is always good to apply.
Customer:
it won’t really help, the weight and it’s ugly and a problem to deal with. When I have to go over a rug or doorway, a slightly lifted leg causes it to come out, weight or no weight. Also, I don’t want to keep moving a weight to use this. It sits in my kitchen and I roll it out to use it but when I go over the rugs and door way, the wheels fall out and I need to use that shelf for ingredients and stuff. When I go up and down in this area for the rugs and door way bump this is when they keep falling out. I’m going to use powerful glue i guess. I’ve dumped plates of food and oil onto the ground outside a couple times now over this. And the fire is still on and it’s dangerous.
Outdoorstirfry:
We are shipping you two knobs in case there will be another future accident. USPS tracking is XXX.
Thank you for your pictures on how you use the stand and stove. The stand is not designed for frequent movements. For your use, strong glue is a good choice for both joints 1 and 2 locations. Yet a better one is to drill hole through these two joint areas such that a bolt/nut can apply there. I understand that drilling on a cylindrical surface is hard if not impossible. You can use a clamp to flatten the area a bit before drilling.
When we started cooking outdoor more than 20 years ago,, the stove we made (like the one here https://outdoorstirfry.com/product/powerflamer-propane-130/) stayed outdoor. We had a white plastic cart on wheels having 3~4 drawers that we put ingredients and raw dishes to roll out to the side of the stove to cook. We had the same problem you are having now. The cartwheels came off often. And the cart could trip. Our solution is to put a permanent table beside the stove. All spices/sauces for cooking are on the table permanently. For every cooking we only need to bring the raw dishes out. Since we don’t cook more than 2 dishes for a meal, these raw dishes are easy to hand hold and carry out. This has been our life in last 20 years. If you find your solution, please reply and share.
I am considering the purchase of your PowerFlamer Integrated Electronic Ignition (IEI) Propane 160 Wok.
My current Wok is a TAYLOR & NG 14″ Flat Bottom, Single Handle Wok. Is this Wok compatible with your PowerFlamer Propane 160 IE?
I like the idea of the optional stove stand. When using the stove stand are the short legs detached?
As I improve my Wok cooking skills, I would like to use the “Wok-Toss technique”.
I am I better off with or without the stove stand when Wok-Tossing?
Do the wheels offer any limitations to the cooking process?
Do the “non flame blocking wok adapter” keep the flame from coming out and burning you hand and or wok handle as noted Kenji Lopez’s review of your PowerFlamer 160 EI? Or is it the integrated to top burner plate?
What is the spider guard?
Outdoorstirfry:
Since your Taylor & Ng wok has a non-stick surface, it can be burnt off by the high power flame. This is not advisable if you prefer non-stick wok surface
The stand only accommodates short leg stoves.
Both options of stand and long leg with stabilizers are suitable for wok tossing.
The stans wheels can be locked.
The “non flame blocking wok adapter” on Kenji’s stove has been integrated into the wind guard of the stove.
Spider guard is to fence off spider building nest inside the stove pipe blocking gas flow.
Inquiry:
Thanks for your prompt support. One more question. What wok is the best match for your burner?
Hello, I’m interested in purchasing. I notice a lot of out products have a proposition 65 warning for containing lead. I have a little one at home so avoid buying anything with lead. What material is your burner and hose made from and does it contain any lead? Thanks!!
Outdoorstirfry:
Our products are cast iron, galvanized steel, brass, copper, and plastic. There is a proposition 65 warning from brass vendors, warning them not be used in water supply. Hope this answer your question.
Hi there. I’m looking to buy one of your PowerFlamer Propane 160 Stoves, and I’m hoping you can help me clarify some things. Is the IEI the only option that has the new 6″ burner? Is the manual EI the only option with a pilot light? If the electric starter on the IEI fails (they commonly do, right?), will you have to reignite between dishes with a lighter? The manual EI ignites with a turn-and-click sort of knob, and no lighter needed, right? Do you sell an option that has the new burner, is easy to start/stop between dishes, and without worry of that breaking? It seems like right now, you can only have the new burner, or a reliable ignition, but not both. But I don’t see why you’d move forward with the IEI if it were majorly flawed. Hoping you can help me understand… Separately, “tankandbottle,” what does this technically add to the stove? Is that an enhancement that I could add later if needed, or it has to be included up front?
Outdoorstirfry:
Is the IEI the only option that has the new 6″ burner? – yes
Is the manual EI the only option with a pilot light? – the manual option is the only one having the pilot light. The EI has an electronic ignition as the right knob.
If the electric starter on the IEI fails (they commonly do, right?), will you have to reignite between dishes with a lighter? – You can use a long nose BBQ igniter if both IEI and EI electronic ignition fails.
The manual EI ignites with a turn-and-click sort of knob, and no lighter needed, right? – the EI right knob is for ignition. You do not need a long nose BBQ ignitor when this is working.
Do you sell an option that has the new burner, is easy to start/stop between dishes, and without worry of that breaking? – You can default to use manual BBQ igniter by ignoring the electronic function even for the IEI version.
It seems like right now, you can only have the new burner, or a reliable ignition, but not both. But I don’t see why you’d move forward with the IEI if it were majorly flawed. Hoping you can help me understand… – you are right, the IEI version is not flawed.
Is that an enhancement that I could add later if needed, or it has to be included up front? – yes. There is an extra piece to connect to a 1lb bottle.
Inquiry:
Thanks so much for the fast reply. Quick follow up… So then, are you recommending the IEI for most people, since you consider the gen 2 to be a universal improvement over the EI? Like, the IEI has both the manual and electric ignitions, so you only need a long nose BBQ igniter if both fail? Is it easy enough to turn down the flame ultra low on the IEI, to the point where it’s basically approximating what the pilot would be? Or is it probably going to shut off completely when you try that?
Outdoorstirfry:
IEI has only one knob. There are customers who are used to indoor range and prefer single knob operation. We would consider IEI more expensive, a bit more powerful than the EI. IEI may not fit everybody’s budget. Both IEI and EI have electronic ignition. You can use long nose BBQ igniter to manual ignite the main burner in case the electronic ignition fails. IEI does not have manual ignition and pilot light. Burner flame of all PowerFlamer stoves (manual, EI and IEI) is continuously adjustable. At minimum, they can be blown off by wind.
does the non IEI (EI? same one in the Kenji video) have a pilot light electric ignition? Thank you.
Outdoorstirfry:
Both electronic ignition versions (EI and IEI) do not have pilot light. Continuing burning by pilot flame at ignition tip will damage the insulation of the electronic ignition wire insulation.
